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Early Modern Knitted Waistcoats and Jackets

Waistcoat. Norsk Folkemuseum.(CC-BY-SA)The silk knitted waistcoats mainly of the seventeenth century are fairly well known. The push for putting together this, very incomplete overview and list, came...

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Men in aprons: 1590-1720

IntroductionFig. 1: Robin the Cobbler, 1655Although aprons are more normally associated with women in the early modern period many tradesmen wore aprons, and references appear in literature, wills,...

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Review of Patterns of Fashion 5

Patterns of Fashion 5: the content, cut, construction and context of bodies, stays, hoops and rumps c.1595-1795, by Janet Arnold, Jenny Tiramani and Luca Costigliolo, et al. London: The School of...

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Bearing cloths

Bearing cloth in the Norwich Museum collectionIn my blog post on baby clothes I didn’t mention bearing cloths. Bearing cloths, sometimes referred to as mantles were the outermost cloth babies were...

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“For my neck” – tippets and palatines.

Lucy, Countess of Carlisle. Ham House © National TrustOriginally a tippet was, according to the Oxford English Dictionary a “hanging part of dress, formerly worn, either attached to and forming part of...

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Book review: The Pocket: a hidden history of women's lives 1660-1900

The Pocket: A Hidden History of Women’s Lives, 1660–1900 by Barbara Burman and Ariane Fennetaux. Yale University Press, 2019, £35.  ISBN  9780300239072, 264 pages, 200 colour illustrations. Back in...

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The stockings from the Texel Wreck

A selection of the reconstructed stockingsI recently attended the Knitting History Symposium in Leiden. What follows is taken from my notes and therefore may not accurately reflect what was said.Much...

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Printed fan leaves of the 1630s by Abraham Bosse

The famous engraving by Abraham Bosse (1602-1676) of people shopping in the Galerie Royale shows three booths. On the left a bookshop, on the right a booth selling collars, neckerchiefs and lace, and...

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Sleeves in Tudor and Stuart Wills and Inventories

Princess Elizabeth by William Scrots, 1546.When sleeves appear as a standalone item in a probate inventory what does it mean? Part of the problem is that today we usually regard sleeves as being always...

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Bobbin Lacemakers in the Early Modern: images and tools

Figure 1 Bobbin lace is thought to have originated in the first half of the sixteenth century, the first published book giving patterns is thought to have been Le Pompe, published in Venice in 1559...

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Stuart Style by Maria Hayward - Book review

Stuart Style: monarchy, dress and the Scottish male elite, by Maria Hayward. Yale University Press, 2020, £35. ISBN 978 0 300 24036 8This work by Maria Hayward focuses on the clothing choices and...

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The Brandenburg

What was the Brandenburg(h) that was worn in the final quarter of the seventeenth century? We have several references to it, but no definitive description. Was it a loose coat or overcoat, as stated by...

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The Cravat

Bowes Museum cravat with original endAs the band replaced the ruff for neckwear in the first half of the seventeenth century, so the cravat replaced the band in the second half of the century. Randle...

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Drawers

Drawers, in the sense of underwear, are usually something that is associated with nineteenth century women, but the term is much older dating back to the sixteenth century. In the seventeenth century...

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The Exchanges - Royal and New

Shopping, for the fashionable when in London, meant a visit to either the Royal Exchange or the New Exchange. The Royal Exchange was built in 1567 by Thomas Gresham, and officially opened on 23 January...

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Ironing and laundry rooms

Ironing room in Doll's house c.1676. RijksmuseumWashing clothes, doing the laundry and ironing is such a basic occupation. Queen Elizabeth had a “Brusher of our robes,” as wool and silk clothing is...

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Jessamy gloves

 Jessamy gloves are perfumed gloves, more specifically they are gloves perfumed with the scent of jasmine. The art of perfuming gloves appears to have become popular in Italy in the 16th century, there...

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Love locks and round heads

Men wearing their hair long was one of the big issues for certain Puritans. William Prynne wrote two pamphlets on the subject, The unloveliness of lovelocks in 1628 (1) and A gagge for long hair’d...

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Mittens in the Early Modern

Leather, early 17th century. Met Museum Mittens, having a single undivided section for the fingers, usually with a separate part for the thumb, appear in archaeological survivals in Europe from as...

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Nightcaps, 1550-1750

1600-25. In LACMA, Los Angeles Nightcaps were caps worn by men informally at home, and sometimes under a hat. There are a number of portraits in which the sitter wears a nightcap under their hat. In...

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